Thursday, 5 February 2015

Deer & Doe 'Datura' Blouse in Carolyn Friedlander 'Doe'

Ta dah! First dressmaking project of the year. This is my first Datura blouse by the fantastic french indie pattern company 'Deer & Doe'.

Coincidentally the fabric collection is also called 'Doe' by Carolyn Friedlander for Kaufman (this particular one being 'Sharp'). I had a hand in picking some new fabrics for the store. When this one arrived it told me exactly what it wanted to be!

I wasn't lazy this time (new year's resolution and all...) and made a toile (muslin) to check the fit and made a few changes. According to the envelope measurements I'm a 38 but due to the 'easy fit' I could definitely have got away with a 36.

One alteration needed was to adjust the shoulder slope, taking out a little excess around the armhole. This also raised the bust a touch which alongside taking in the side seams improved the fit dramatically. Whilst I'm quite happy with the fit I think I could have gone a little further.

Construction wise it came together pretty speedily (aside from Bernie's little hiatus). I must say the diagrams are a little lacking regarding the yoke assembly. I found this tutorial from 'The Drapery' really helpful for visualising exactly how it's done. It's really quite straightforward once you get your head around the method and yields a great clean result with no visible stitching at all.

The narrow curved hem was a breeze! I tackled it by stitching a line to act as a pressing guide at around about 1/4" (so no fiddly measuring at the ironing board!) and giving it a real good steam into place. I stitched this first turn, then pressed it up once more finally stitching it from the right side giving a nice clean finish (though two rows are visible from the inside oops).

Patience with the overall finish of my garments is something that I'm working on so I took some care with the insides too -overlocking the side seams and pressing them open, then finishing the yoke by hand with a ladder stitch.

Speaking of said patience, I delved through my vintage button stash fully intending to resist my usual 'Kam' snaps addiction (I promise!) only I wasn't quite happy with any of them. Ah well, snaps it is then!

Changes for next time? It's supposed to be 'Semi-fitted' but I'd fit it a little further reducing the fullness at the hips, narrow the shoulders and stretch the bias more when applying it to the neckline (though I might go for the peter pan collar next). Definitely more to come!

Now chambray or plaid 'Bruyere' shirt or polka dot 'Albion' Jacket next... Hmmm...


  1. It looks great Marie! I've been coveting this pattern for ages, but went for the Belladone instead*. Some very good fitting here and the insides look just as lovely as the outside! I think with a yoke like that, a good number of clear diagrams should be included really. Fab job anyway.

    *Aside: Deer & Doe themselves were out of stock of the Belladone and no-one in the UK seemed to have any D&D patterns on their websites despite being listed as stockists on D&D's website, I found out it was because D&D have the following policy: they want to be the only ones who sell patterns online. But many of the stockist will set up the order via e-mail. Just for future reference, in case you want any more of their patterns.

    1. I was wondering the same -Thanks for clearing that up!! I bought mine directly from Raystitch's brick and mortar store in London when I was visiting.

      Yoke puzzle aside I do love this one so definitely recommend it ...if you can get your hands on it of course :)

  2. Wow that is a wonderful Datura! Congrats on digging deep and finding the motivation to make a toile, sounds like it really was worth it xx

    1. Aw, thanks Zoe! I'm extraordinarily lazy so digging deep sums it up exactly. I'm rarely happy with the end result when winging it so it is worth it really -just a real pain! ...building up my 'MMM' supplies! x